Frommer's London by Darwin Porter

Author:Darwin Porter [Porter, Darwin]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: General, Travel, Europe, Great Britain, London (England)
ISBN: 9780470285596
Publisher: Frommer's
Published: 2008-08-07T23:00:00+00:00

EXPENSIVE

Shepherd’s TRADITIONAL BRITISH Some observers claim that many of the inner workings of the English government operate from the precincts of this conservative, likable restaurant. Set in the shadow of Big Ben, it enjoys a regular clientele of barristers, members of Parliament, and their constituents from far-flung districts. So synchronized is this place to the goings-on at Parliament that a Division Bell rings in the dining room, calling MPs back to the House of Commons when it’s time to vote. Even the decor is designed to make them feel at home, with leather banquettes, sober 19th-century accessories, and a worthy collection of European portraits and landscapes.

The menu reflects years of English culinary tradition, and dishes are prepared intelligently, with fresh ingredients. In addition to the classic roast, dishes include a cream-based mussel stew; hot salmon and potato salad with dill dressing; salmon and prawn fish cakes in spinach sauce; and roast leg of lamb with mint sauce.

Marsham Court, Marsham St. (at the corner of Page St.), SW1. 020/7834-9552. Reservations recommended. Fixed-price menu: 2 courses £24 ($48); 3 courses £27 ($54). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 12:15–2:45pm and 6:30–11pm (last order at 11pm). Tube: Pimlico or St. James’s.

MODERATE

Rex Whistler MODERN BRITISH The Tate Britain’s restaurant is particularly attractive to wine fanciers. It offers what may be the best bargains for superior wines anywhere in Britain. Bordeaux and burgundies are in abundance, and the management keeps the markup between 40% and 65%, rather than the 100% to 200% added in most restaurants. In fact, the prices here are lower than they are in most wine shops. Wine begins at £15 ($30) per bottle, or £4 ($8) per glass. Oenophiles frequently come for lunch. The restaurant offers an English menu that changes about every month. Dishes might include pheasant casserole, pan-fried skate with black butter and capers, and vegetarian selections. One critic found the staff and diners as traditional “as a Gainsborough landscape.” Access to the restaurant is through the museum’s main entrance on Millbank.

Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1. 020/7887-8825. Reservations recommended. Main courses £15 ($30); breakfast from £4.75 ($9.50); afternoon tea £6.95 ($14). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Sat–Sun 10–3pm; daily 3:30–5pm for afternoon tea. Tube: Pimlico. Bus: 77 or 88.

INEXPENSIVE

Jenny Lo’s Teahouse CANTONESE/SZECHUAN London’s noodle dives don’t get much better than this. Before its decline, Ken Lo’s Memories of China offered the best Chinese dining in London. The late Ken Lo, whose grandfather was the Chinese ambassador to the Court of St. James, made his reputation as a cookbook author. Jenny Lo is Ken’s daughter, and her father taught her many of his culinary secrets. Belgravia matrons and young professionals come here for perfectly prepared, reasonably priced fare. Ken Lo cookbooks contribute to the dining room decor of black refectory tables set with paper napkins and chopsticks. Opt for such fare as a vermicelli rice noodle dish (a large plate of noodles topped with grilled chicken breast and Chinese mushrooms) or white noodles with minced pork. Rounding out the menu are stuffed Peking dumplings, chile-garnished spicy prawns, and wonton soup with slithery dumplings.

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